In Transilvania

27th June
Early start with a 5 hour drive into Transylvania and the origins of Dracula. We stayed in the town where ‘he’ was born. We were inside the citadel & the buildings were interesting. After a very quick orientation - there’s not much to see - I climbed the steps in the clock tower to get a view of the city. Looked around at the ‘tacky’ souvenir shops - everything seems to be from Italy! The cobble streets play havoc when you are walking but that didn’t stop us from heading down the streets for a typical Romanian dinner!

28th June
Late start today so I walked up the 100+ steps to the church - I stopped myself from going inside as I’m churched out! Walked around the German graveyard - the dates on some of the stones showed generations of families. Decided to buy the worst looking cup relating to Dracula to take back to work in the hope that no one will use it!

At 1pm we were picked up by mini bus and driven for an hour through lovely countryside to a UNESCO Saxon village. There are 18 Germans (the Saxons) a number of Romanian families & 300 Gypsies.
Visited the Saxon church (14th century)and learnt about the history of the area. German & Romanian were taught in schools and then the Germans fled during the communist reign because they were unsure if they’d be able to leave & consequently they didn’t return. It seems that everyone lives in harmony.

It is unbelievably rural with chickens, ducks and turkeys running around the village. There are a large number of horse and carts used here. The women sit outside the houses knitting socks - the sale of these helps the community to get the children to school & feed the poor in the winter. We visited the Blacksmith who is a Gypsy & watched him make horseshoes. The bellow he was using was 300 years old.

The houses are interesting and one is owned by Prince Charles - in fact I’m staring at it as I type! As we were separated into different houses we all met for dinner at one of the houses. It was an outside affair with long trestle tables. Home made wine and schnapps was flowing - we had vegetable soup, a lamb dish with polenta & cake. As we finished we were made to jump up to see the cows and goats returning home - each one knew which gate/house to go into. We then moved sheep from one house to another.

Each house is different inside and some people slept in the drawers!

29th June
Two hour mini bus ride to Brasov. When we arrived there was some type of military  parade happening in the square with tanks & many guns in evidence. It appears that this platoon(?) is just back from Afghanistan so people were happy.

Took a guided tour around the town. It was once a fortified town so there are turrets & walls to see. This is a Saxon town so many building date back to the 12th century.

Now in Romania

24th June
Left Budapest by train to Eger where ‘Bulls Blood’ - the Hungarian wine my dad would try to get hold of when we were young - is made. After exploring the city we walked down to the Valley of the Beautiful Women where we visited one of the wine cellars.

We tried a number of different wines and had each one explained to us in part English, part Hungarian plus a ‘splattering’(literally) of German. There was a group of Germans who’d obviously visited a number of cellars before ours as they had to be dragged out they were so drunk they couldn’t even stand up. There was a huge storm including large hail so had to get back to hotel by taxi rather than walking.

25th June
Early start with a walk to the bus station for the local bus to Debrecen just over 2 hours away - it was surprisingly comfortable. We had a 3 hour wait so walked around and had lunch before boarding a train to take us into Romania.  This was a 3 hour journey but part of the way through we had a boarder crossing. The Hungarian border Police take your passport vanish for about 20 minutes & then come back. I checked my passport for a stamp but they said (indicated) that I didn’t get a stamp because I was using my British passport. I pulled a face, they conferred & then stamped my  passport. Train moves off for 10 minutes, stops and the Romanian Border Police get on, take passports, disappear and quite a while later return. Once again no stamp and there was not going to be a stamp from Romania in my passport!!

Continued on the train for another hour and then we were taken by mini bus for a further two hours. The weather had changed and it was raining and as we travelled deep into the forest and gained height it became
very foggy. Finally we descended and the weather cleared. We arrived at our home stay at 9:30 pm and were sat down to a four course home style meal - very nice especially the schnapps which we had simply for our digestion!

27th June
Today was sightseeing and our first visit was to the ‘Merry Cemetery’. this was an amazing place. Each grave had a painting of the occupation of the dead person complete with a poem, written by the artist, about that person - there was a very funny one about a mother-in- law!

We then went to a large supermarket to buy items for our picnic lunch. Drove into the countryside and just sat staring at beautiful green countryside as we ate. As we drive along we see lots of horses and carts used by the local people. There also seems to be storks nest, complete with adults and young, on many light poles.

We visited a village where a local man showed us how he put wooden ladders etc into bottles - which are then usually filled with home made Schnapps. We were offered Schnapps but when everyone backed off as if we were going to be poisoned it gamely stepped forward and saved face for the Aussies!

Went on to the wood carvers house - they certainly like extra large carved gates. Next stop, a wooden church. It’s not in use any more but it was certainly different. Last stop a Monastery which run by 12 nuns - rather over the top!

Made it to Budapest

20th June
Woke early to walk down to the Embroidery market which started at 3am -we were there just after 6am!It was manic with stall holders and women standing in lines with embroidered blouses etc over their arms. The traditional colours are white with red embroidery but it appears that each village has it’s own designs and colours.

We had a quick breakfast of cheese (?) filled pancakes - we have had a lot of pancakes and sour cream but I’m happy to report that my clothes still fit, even a bit loose, must be all the walking!Had a four hour journey north to Lviv. As the driver put it ‘the houses are well looked after and represent the people whereas the roads represent the government’. The roads are terrible and you spend the whole journey swerving around massive potholes and driving on the wrong side of the road. There seems to be no road rage & no accidents!

Went out to dinner at the most amazing place. Firstly you had to know where it was otherwise you would never have found it. We went through an alley and at the end was a plain wooden door but when you knocked a man in military uniform with fake machine gun asked for a password. We didn’t go there but upstairs & knocked on the door of what looked like a unit, the door opened and it was a man’s kitchen - even had some chops frying on the stove. You really felt that you were in someone’s house but then you entered the restaurant. The whole place was related to the Masons hence the secrecy. One of the group went to the loo & came back saying that it was decked out as a throne. We were then taken to other hidden places where another loo was was clear plastic with bundles of American dollars plastering the walls & in another room was a 1930's car in amongst the tables. Food was great.

Walking back to the hotel we watched as an illegally parked car was lifted onto a truck and taken away. the locals were delighting in the fact that the numberplate showed that it was from Russia & we could hear “Ha ha Ruskie!”

This city reminds me of Lisbon (with its trams) & Prague.

21st June
The day started with a 3 hour walking tour of the city. The city was crazy because there was a vintage car rally going on & many streets were closed. traffic was at a standstill & even the trams had problems getting  around. It was very hot and humid & we tried to get into the shade as much as possible. We did visit a couple of churches. The churches had all been closed during the Soviet rule & WW11 & were only recently opened up again.

Had a nice lunch in an interesting restaurant but it soon became extremely busy with people from the car rally & we were glad to leave. A few of us then caught the tram to visit a cemetery ( I know but it’s actually a museum of statues!). It was actually very pleasant to be in a cool, green area.

Boarded the overnight train at 9pm. I was on the top bunk, luckily there was a ladder so no crazy antics! It was pretty compact & I had to put my bags on my bunk. There was a Russian lady on the lower bunk who didn’t speak English so there was no conversation! It was extremely hot & the airconditioning didn’t work. I just couldn’t get to sleep & at 3am the Ukrainian border guards came on for our passports. Other border inspectors go on wanting to know where we were from & how many bags we had - later heard that anyone who was American had their bags opened and thoroughly checked! We then spent a good two hours shunting backwards & forwards as the wheels on each carriage were changed - they are a different gauge. Finally our passports were returned. I finally dropped off to sleep when the shout of “Passports” rang out, this time from the Hungarians. They spent so long studying my British passport even using a magnifying glass - I picked up the word hologram - that I whipped out my Aussie passport. That got them going & soon both were returned! I think I slept for a few hours but the delight at leaving the train at 11:20am was overwhelming.

When we were finally clean & our stomachs full we were given the option of a 3 hour cycling tour of Budapest. We are staying on the Pest side which is flat so the ride was easy & we covered a lot of ground taking in the important sights. Most of the group dropped out for the Buda side but I gamely carried on - i wished I hadn’t when we started to climb up the hill but the view from the top was worth it!

23rd June
Did a tour of Budapest on the ‘hop on hop off’ bus which included a trip down the Danube - wanted to get some pictures as I hadn’t taken my camera on the bike ride.

Have changed groups as only four of us were going through to Istanbul. Most of this group are from Perth. It is strange to see the other group go as we had some laughs together.

In the Ukrainian countryside

17th June
We went to the Museum dedicated to the Chenobyl disaster of 1986. It’s amazing what the Ukrainian and Russian people were not told. People weren’t even evacuated for 36 hours & there have been many radiation associated deaths.

We are mastering the Metro quite well especially as station names are in English and also they are given a number. Trains are very frequent and it only costs 25c to where you want to go.

I went up to one of the cathedrals in the afternoon & it was an amazing example of mosaic art. It contained numerous museums which were interesting.

At about 7pm we headed to the Metro once again but with our luggage. It was a nightmare with the crowds and heat & by the time we reached the main railway station we were lathered in sweat!. We boarded the night train to travel further west into the Ukraine and it left exactly on time. We had to make up our own bunks and joy of joy I was on the bottom bunk. There were two Russian in the compartment & the guide translated the conversation of the older gentleman - the story of his youth was pretty terrible but he wanted us to know about it.

18th June
Slept quite well considering the amount of rocking and according to others the amount of stations the train stopped at!

Were picked up from our arrival station by mini bus for a drive of about an hour into the countryside. The roads were something to behold - just pothole after pothole and consequently the driver was all over the place trying to miss them. We arrived unscathed at a B& B where a shower and breakfast were the order of the day.

Did a tour of the town and visited a folk museum. It’s amazing how many crafts are continued generation after generation. Saw how they made the fancy Easter eggs from real eggs - it was an interesting process although some of it was like batik.

 Went to a delicious patisserie where a big pot of tea and a fancy slice of cake set me me back just over $3!!

Some of us opted to be shown how to make Ukrainian dumplings by the owner’s mother and we then  helped her to make them. 

Dinner was homemade Borsch soup - very Ukrainian/Russian - followed by the homemade dumplings. Yum!

19th June
Off at 8:30 in a minibus to the nearby mountains. Arrived in a little village and started to walk uphill through fields of wild flowers and into beech woods - it reminded me so much of England, especially when I heard the cuckoo. At one stage we saw a snake and unlike my usual leaping about in fright I was very calm & watched it slither away - I know it wasn’t very big but I did find out later that it was one of the poisonous varieties!

Shepherd's hut

We could hear the cow bells from cattle grazing in the hills and later came across a shepherds house ( they call anyone who looks after the cattle shepherds). In the wooden house the open fire was smoking and we crammed inside to see where they made the cheese. Some of it rests on the rafters just above the smoke & that flavours the cheese. Cheese is made fresh each day and the fire never goes out. We tasted three types of cheese and they were all very good. A shepherd stays there all the time but there are three of them and they rotate at the end of each week.
The descent was pretty steep but there was a river waiting to restore us. When I plunged in it took my breath away as it was so cold but after a short while it became enjoyable & so refreshing after the walk.

We drove to the next village where we had lunch (3pm) at a local house. Started with Borsch & then had a variety of Ukrainian foods - very enjoyable. Out came the homemade vodka which we were all encouraged to sample and the glasses were refilled a couple of times. The lady then showed us some embroidery she had done - quite exquisite - and showed us the outfit she’s embroidering for her son’s wedding in a couple of months.

Into the Ukraine

15th June Moscow to Kiev
It was really late when we got on the train & as we filed on were stamped out of Russia. I was in a compartment with another guy on the trip & a couple of elderly Russians which meant i had to get onto the top bunk. Do you think I could do it - no way! The foot holds were ridiculous & I felt that i would fall off before I’d even got to the bunk - I just couldn’t get up there. All was solved by the old guy indicating that I should step onto the seat then onto the table & then shimmy up to the bunk. I decided that I wasn’t getting up there until I’d been to the loo & they don’t open those until you are out of the city. Eventually my 'monkey’ trick got me to the bunk & I wasn’t getting down ( not easy either until I had to! My antics caused much hilarity in my compartment & the old couple (when their words were translated) said I would never forget the train trip to Kiev! I really enjoyed my time in Russia - it was always good to see the people lighten up & we saw some great sights.

Kiev

Joined a walking tour around the city which was ok but after lack of sleep from the train I was not quite in the mood so had a relaxing afternoon. It’s also very warm & really quite humid.

Have just had Chicken Kiev for dinner - well one has to really - it was delicious.

16th June

Went by local bus to a Monastery where mummified monks are placed in glass ‘coffins’ in a cave _ the cave wasn’t quite as we’d expected. We stepped careful downwards as there was very little light and the steps were very wet. People in front of me stopped at each ‘coffin’ said a prayer, crossed themselves and then kissed the coffin. You couldn’t actually see the mummified monks as they were covered with their vestments.

Wandered around a small folk museum which was quite interesting and then walked to the Motherland monument which was beside the WW11

museum. There were plenty of tanks and guns around but the weren’t my cup of tea!

Last days in Russia

St Basils by Red Square

13th June Free day around Moscow
Had to go and buy new trainers after mine gave me blisters so badly I could hardly walk - don’t understand why as I’ve worn them on numerous trips! Prices are about the same as home and in fact often much more expensive.

Followed the Kremlin wall - not going in for tour until tomorrow - until we reached St Basil’s Cathedral. It is now a museum but it was difficult to see how a service could be conducted there as it’s totally different in lay out to other cathedrals we’ve been in. 

14th June
Today we went into the Kremlin with a guide. The first area we visited was the Armoury - full of very interesting artifacts including the boots of Peter the Great. Some of clothing was exquisite. Here they also have the second largest English silver collection. The Royal carriages were definitely over the top!

We passed the Palace on the way to Cathedral Square. The guide mentioned we were on the ABC (another bloody church!) tour. There were three in the square which were close to the palace so that the Tsars were able to walk to each church for each official ceremony.

We came out of the Kremlin & walked to Red Square - red in Russian means beautiful. The area was still blocked off after the Independence Day celebrations.

Now waiting to go to the railway stateion via the Metro to catch the overnight train to the Ukraine.

On the way to Moscow

Day 3 Novgorod

We had a guided tour of the immediate area of Novgorod which included the Kremlin - another name for a fort. This city is over 1000 years old and all the buildings used to be made of wood but obviously burnt down on  regular basis. It became a big trading area and because only churches could be built of stone the traders started to build their warehouses to look like churches. They didn’t like the idea of them being made out of wood for fear that they would lose their goods if a fire started.

There was an interesting monument which depicted the history of this area. We learnt many interesting facts.

We then caught a local bus to see a very old monastery and an area where ancient houses were being preserved.

In the afternoon we went to a public Banyo where we stripped off and initially covered ourselves in a large sheet - modesty but all the Russian ladies were naked & we soon got over ourselves. You went into the sauna and then went to another room where you washed and showered. One time I ventured to the sauna by myself & a lady started talking to me but obviously I didn’t understand her so she pulled my ‘modesty’ sheet from me laid it on the bench and indicated that I had to lay on my front. She then proceeded to beat me soundly with birch leaves!! It was all very invigorating and definitely a great interaction with local people.

I’m now on the night train to Moscow. I’m in a compartment with three Russians but all is well. Arrive Moscow at 5:30am so am about to go to sleep.

June 12th Independence Day in Russia

Good sleep on train - was impressed with the clean linen and comfy bed.

Had to catch the Metro to our hotel & then walk a fair distance & it had started to rain!
Too early to check in so we went in search of breakfast. We then headed towards the Kremlin stopping at The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour - has to be the most beautiful church I have ever been in & 13 years ago it was actually an open air swimming pool after Lenin had told the people to tear the church down!

We tried to get into Red Square but everywhere was blocked off for the Independence Day Celebrations. We ended up at a park to watch some folk dancing & saw the most incredible group of dancers - famous around the world so we were told.

Dinner in a local restaurant where I tried a local Vodka. 

Novogorod

Day 2
Last nights boat trip was really interesting and at times the canals reminded me of Venice. St Pertersburg is a UNESCO site and there was colour in the buildings - yellow, pink and pale green. These colours are not allowed to be changed and the facades have to remain the same.

Some of us went to dinner after the boat trip and were enjoying the chat when the guide asked a couple of times if we’d be able to find our way back to the hotel. We were puzzled by the question until we realised that it was 10:45! These light nights really throw you.

11pm!

This morning saw a few of us head to St Isaacs Cathedral. First was a visit to the colonade - just 200 stairs upwards. The view from the top was spectacular as you walked around the outer level you had spectacular views over the city. I then walked around the inside & all the decorations were spectacular.

  After a quick lunch we were off to the bus station to catch a bus to Novgorod - 4 hours away. The bus trip was ok as we drove through rural areas and saw small dachas (the ‘country” houses).There were lots of forested areas. The roads were good and the drivers were good - none of the ridiculously scary driving of some countries! 

There was a problem with the train tickets to the Ukraine for four of us which meant we saw Russia at it’s best? To cut a long story short if you were being dealt with & it was the ticket officers time for tea she just closed the window & you just had to wait until she came back. No one complained - they just said to us “This is Russia!” We did eventually get the tickets sorted! 

After a quick shower we started walking towards the Kremlin - not the one we know, that’s in Moscow It’s basically like a fort. We ended up at some flats where we were entertained and fed by a couple of Russian sisters. It was interesting and they answered many questions. Once again the daylight was just fading as we arrived back at nearly midnight. 

I now know three Russian words - Da = yes, Niet = no and Thank you sounds like ‘spicybar’!

Arrived in St Peterburg

Good flight, with hardly any turbulence, to Dubai arriving at 5:30am Dubai time.Slept in fits and starts. Found the hotel within the terminal and paid for a swim and shower. I was very good after all that sitting! I had the pool and the spa bath to myself so spent an hour there before going for a massage. That’s quite a civilised way to travel! 

After a five hour transit it was a six hour flight to St Petersburg - I did miss the A380 on this leg but it wasn’t too bad. Coming in to land the sight was a mixture of grey high rise & green trees and parks.
getting through customs was a nightmare so many planes coming in and not enough staff but we made it and my bag was there waiting for me!

I was met at the airport and driven to the hotel starting point through wide tree lined avenues. the buildings are either grey or dirty beige but there are lots of parks and greenery. It’s very clean no litter anywhere.

After our meet and greet we went off to dinner at a local Georgian (country) restaurant - good food.There is a very strange mix of people on this tour - all oldies & some who’ve never travelled before! I’m sharing with an ex teacher who is  a couple of years older, from Tassie, who has been here before so has plenty of knowledge of the place. It was so weird to be walking back from the restaurant at 9pm & the sun was still high in the sky. 

I had a good sleep and was ready to start the day. Margaret, my ‘room mate’ guided me through the streets to the Hermitage Museum & on the way we stopped in at Kazan cathedral - looks like a government building from the outside but was very interesting inside. Interestingly these churches/cathedrals have no seating, all the congregation stand for all services.

Lucky I’d bought my ticket for the Hermitage Museum before before I left home& once the clock stuck 10:30 I was off & running with hundreds of others. In two hours I got my fill of art & jostling for position to view the art works so I’m now very cultured!!

Next was a visit to the Church of the Saviour of the Blood which is a state historical monument with unique mosaic decorations with five helmet like domes of different patterns. Inside all the walls were covered in mosaics.

Finally after an extremely long walk we reached Smolny Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ. Looked interesting from the outside but was a total let down inside - hardly any church icons  and it had been turned into a concert hall. It took us an hour to walk back to the hotel and boy was I glad to sit down. a massivstorm has just passed & hopefully that’s it as we are off on a boat trip at 7:30pm.